tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6036496375255618039.post4079333910937831806..comments2024-03-19T06:00:19.292-04:00Comments on outdoor photography: Best Canon Lenses for Nature PhotographyScott Simmonshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07349460516783179575noreply@blogger.comBlogger9125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6036496375255618039.post-74555993858869101522013-08-12T04:51:08.951-04:002013-08-12T04:51:08.951-04:00Nature Photography is an extremely broad term and ...Nature Photography is an extremely broad term and so contains a lot of subcategories. Some of the more popular classes and subjects are flora and fauna sceneries, waterscapes, Plants and lots more.The term <a href="http://xtraamazingpics.com" rel="nofollow"><b>Nature Photos</b></a> refers to a large field of photography, which deals with natural occurring constituents and the grand outdoorsAmelia Robertsnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6036496375255618039.post-50342078222184221692013-06-19T10:16:14.252-04:002013-06-19T10:16:14.252-04:00That's a very good question. Your 18-55mm len...That's a very good question. Your 18-55mm lens will probably work pretty well for you for landscapes, especially if you stay off f/3.5. In the f/8 to f/16 range, that lens will probably do very well. For wildlife photos, if the 300mm or 400mm lens is too large, it may be difficult to find an SLR lens small enough to fit your needs. <br /><br />One option to consider is a compact camera, perhaps Canon's SX50HS. It has plenty of zoom for wildlife photography, and if you need to pack light, it may be your best option (and cheaper than buying a high quality 300mm lens). It has a small sensor, doesn't shoot RAW images, and with shutter lag, slower focusing and frame rate, you may miss action shots. But it zooms out to an effective 1200mm, and it's tough to argue with that. Image quality will not be the same as a DSLR, but it still may work. Lilian Stokes wrote about the camera here: http://stokesbirdingblog.blogspot.com/2013/02/canon-sx-50-hs-for-bird-photography-i.htmlScott Simmonshttp://www.learnoutdoorphotography.com/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6036496375255618039.post-72118577177281837782013-06-15T13:50:41.149-04:002013-06-15T13:50:41.149-04:00I own a EOS Rebel t3i and bought the lens kit whic...I own a EOS Rebel t3i and bought the lens kit which came with the EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Type II Lens. This summer I am traveling to South America and have to pack light. I'll be mainly taking landscape and wildlife photos which canon lens would you recommend? Thanks!Emilynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6036496375255618039.post-5785748838502850792013-02-23T01:23:22.531-05:002013-02-23T01:23:22.531-05:00Lovely pictures and very good capture.Lovely pictures and very good capture.Photo Maskinghttp://www.clippingpathindia.com/image-masking.htmlnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6036496375255618039.post-23269889223205245682012-10-12T16:08:45.370-04:002012-10-12T16:08:45.370-04:00Congrats on your new camera! The 60D is a fantast...Congrats on your new camera! The 60D is a fantastic camera, and I'm sure it will serve you well. I'm not a portrait photographer, but for group shots, I probably would not use f/5.6. I would try f/8, and depending on how close you are to your subject you may even decide f/11 works best. Your depth of field is a range 1/3 in front of where you focus and 2/3 behind, so you can try choosing a focusing point about a third of the way into the range you want in focus and then choose an f/stop that will keep the front and back people sharp..<br /><br /><br />If you have your camera mounted on a tripod and if your group shots are stationary portraits, you may even try staging the shot ahead of time. Have two people standing in your scene (one in the front and one in the back), set your focus to manual focus and choose the focal distance and f/stop that works. Use your preview screen to make sure you have both sharp. Then leave it in manual focus for the portraits. The advantage of this is that your focal distance won't move as your subjects move. For instance, if you have it set on the center focusing point, and that puts your focus on someone in the back, people in the front may be blurry. If your center focusing point is on someone in the front and that person moves to the side, the camera may refocus all the way to the background and everyone will be blurry. Just be sure to double check your focus from time to time, and you can even use your "depth of field preview" button (located near the lens mount) to make sure the front and back are in focus.Scott Simmonshttp://www.learnoutdoorphotography.com/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6036496375255618039.post-12603797070991662822012-10-12T00:59:34.518-04:002012-10-12T00:59:34.518-04:00I've just bought my very 1st dslr, a canon 60d...I've just bought my very 1st dslr, a canon 60d, I ended up getting the single lens kit (EFS 18-55mm) a 50mm 1.8 canon lens, and a tamron 18-270mm lens (which I have been told is a great all round) I'm not sure what the kit lens is good for, it has a pol filter on it, but I've used the 50mm lens mostly which I love, what I'm finding with the 50mm lens is when I do portraits, I use AV and set it to 1.8 mainly, but when I do group shots, I set it to around 5.6 and am finding at least one person is coming out blurry, I use centre focus and centre weighted for the metering. What settings should I be using for group shots with the 50mm outdoor and in? I'm hoping to do a proper camera course next year and I can't wait! So excited!Cathy Haeshttp://www.facebook.com/cathy.haesnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6036496375255618039.post-87310879873953076152012-08-01T02:38:17.692-04:002012-08-01T02:38:17.692-04:00Narrowing down the lenses to recommend for the
lan...Narrowing down the lenses to recommend for the<br />landscape category is not easy. Most lenses out there, from a 15mm fisheye to a<br />600mm Super Telephoto, can be used for landscape photography. Many of the<br />lenses in my <br /><br /><br /><b>Advanced Digital Photography </b><br /><br /><br />make excellent choices.Digitalcamerasnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6036496375255618039.post-2945971750848487322012-07-19T16:11:31.726-04:002012-07-19T16:11:31.726-04:00Excellent point. I added a note to that effect ab...Excellent point. I added a note to that effect above. Thanks!Scott Simmonshttp://www.learnoutdoorphotography.com/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6036496375255618039.post-416897341877690602012-07-19T15:55:23.438-04:002012-07-19T15:55:23.438-04:00One big advantage of the 300 f/4 over the 400 f/5....One big advantage of the 300 f/4 over the 400 f/5.6 that you don't mention is the dramatic difference in the lenses close-focus ability. If someone wants to photograph dragonflies, for example, the close-focus ability of the 300mm lens will make all the difference. The 400mm cannot focus closer than 3.5m, almost 12 feet; whereas the 300mm will focus to 1.5m, just under 5 feet (even with the 1.4x attached). Also, for someone like me who doesn't have very steady hands the IS is vital, even for framing the shot.Bosque Billhttp://www.bosquebill.comnoreply@blogger.com